Thursday, May 26, 2011


When I first started making beats, I began like many other producers, with two excellent software programs: FL Studio and Cool Edit Pro (now known as Adobe Audition). Together these tools created an workflow that was fast fun and creative especially for editing samples. A year ago, I decided I was sick of always having to stare at a the computer screen and all the mouse clicking that using software for production requires and decided to get my hands on Native Instrument's Maschine. Maschine, a software and MPC like hardware controller, allowed me to make music with all the advantages of software but without the requirement of having to look at a screen, or use a mouse. However, one thing I did miss is chopping/editing samples in Cool Edit Pro. Maschine is also good for editing audio but Cool Edit Pro provided a much faster workflow with pinpoint accuracy. With Maschine's new drag and drop function (added in the 1.6 update) I made this little video showing how easy it is to chop samples in Adobe Audition (using the mac trial version) and lay them out on the Maschine's pads.

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posted by Donovan at 10:02 PM | 0 comments
Monday, March 14, 2011


Last time I checked, there were a lot of cats around here...

Yep, they're still here. I just checked again. We have a lot of cats... How many? So many... it's just crazy! Anyways, true to the immense suckers that we are, we've also somehow managed to come to support a small contingency of outdoor neighbourhood cats as well. While my own unholy feline army is safe indoors year round, the two (hideous) Tom cats that roam my neighbourhood have to brave the winter weather, and it was getting REALLY cold around here a few weeks ago. The solution? An emergency DIY outdoor cat shelter!

You can find a bunch of different designs for outdoor cat shelters around the web as I discovered when I began my research for the project. One idea that immediately stood out was this kind of design made from a large Rubbermaid storage bin. While I had originally planned on building my shelter out of wood, I found that a bin would be ideal since I have so many of them already from all of the cat-ruined clothes that I have in storage. These bins work really well for a shelter as they have no seams, and are thick enough to withstand the winter weather. Honestly, the bin should be pretty self-explanatory, so the majority of the work is simply insulating the crap out of it, cutting a "cat approved" hole, and making it comfortable for your guests.

Step One: Gather your parts

  • One large rubber storage bin.
  • Styrofoam insulation/regular Styrofoam is also acceptable.
  • 2 large garbage bags.
  • Some blankets/old soft towels that you're okay with parting ways with - they're probably not coming back, lol.
  • Bubble wrap (I know!) - The foil backed variety is preferable.

Step Two: Put it all together

First, I sized the Styrofoam insulation to fit the four inner walls and "ceiling" of the bin. The give between the Styrofoam and rubber bin made it relatively easy to get a good fit around the inside of the shelter. Hot glue easily secured the Styrofoam in place.



Next, I lined the inside "roof" with a garbage bag, and then added a layer of bubble wrap on the inside, covering the Styrofoam.

While the original design that I based my own upon used the lid of the bin as its roof, I decided to do it the other way around - I simply wanted it to be wider at the bottom. If you're really in doubt, just ask the preference of the cat that will be using it.


(Exhibit A: 1/2 of the Gruesome Twosome.)


To prepare the lid I began by lining it with another piece of garbage bag, and then a layer of bubble wrap. The garbage bag helps to seal the bin when you finally attach the lid (be it floor, or ceiling). I also added a towel and an old blanket to really spice things up.


What’s with the bubble wrap? Well, it's supposed to act as an insulator, or specifically, like a cluster of tiny thermal pockets. If the wrap is exposed to a enough sunlight, the air inside the bubbles will heat up, and can be retained for quite some time – at least, so I’m told. I had a little extra after finishing the inside, so I decided to wrap the remainder around the top of the bin as well.



Lastly, I had to cut a hole big enough for the cats to use, but not quite big enough for the raccoons, skunks, breath-stealing trolls, or anything else in your backyard that may want to get inside. Also, since this is supposed to protect from the cold, it is desirable to have the entrance as small as possible.

I started with a way too small hole, and then slowly cut more away using a jigsaw after testing each iteration with a feline volunteer of approximate size to my outdoor friends. I also wanted the entrance a little high so that when a cat is inside the shelter, the hole is a little higher than they are (also in an effort to minimize the effects of cold winds). My faithful feline test subject jumped right inside the shelter once the hole was the right size. The trick to getting the entrance right is mostly making sure that its tall enough - your guests need to be able easily step into the shelter.




Step Three: Deploy the shelter!


You may want to experiment with where you place your shelter - some recommend avoiding places where the outdoor cats like to eat, as the shelter could potentially attract rivals. However, regardless of where you place it, you may want to consider putting some dry food, or treats in it when you deploy it for the first time in order to let the outdoor cats know you mean business.

So does it work? To tell you the truth, I had my doubts at first... I would see the (horrible) Toms checking it out, but they never seemed to want to take the plunge.

But then, on one particularly rainy morning I noticed something...




Holy crap!



Until next time,
M.

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posted by Marcus at 10:58 PM | 0 comments
Saturday, March 5, 2011


We hit a bit of a milestone a couple of weeks ago when (to our shock) Robot-Party surpassed 20,000 hits.

I am painfully aware of the gaps that sometimes occur between our posts around here, and for that I apologize - in our defense, we're a (just barely) two-brain operation. But we are thrilled with even the slightest possibility that our blog has been in any way helpful or informative for our readers, and we will continue to do our best to provide the best content that we can.

Thanks so much, everyone!

M. & D.

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posted by Marcus at 2:34 PM | 0 comments
Thursday, February 24, 2011


Hey! It's been a while...

It seems like just about everyone’s talking about eBooks these days… This year has witnessed an explosion both of a plethora eBook formats, as well as accessible technology that has enabled both their proliferation and use. The biggest players in the eBook game still seem to be Amazon, Apple, Barnes and Noble, and Sony. But whether you choose a Kindle, Nook, Ipad, or one of Sony’s eReaders, it’s worthwhile to consider the file formats inherent to each platform before you decide to take the plunge.

While Project Gutenberg has been digitizing public domain books into plain text for years, almost every major eReader on the scene either favours, or has introduced a its very own eBook format (and DRM system along with it). Since the very core appeal of eBooks lies in their capacity for accessibility and convenience, you’ll want an eReader that can read as many different formats as possible while offering up the least amount of DRM-related barriers. And barriers there be! Seriously, it’s a terrible mess of (un)interoperability – It’s so dry, I don’t even want to paraphrase it, so I’m going to let Wikipedia take over for a block quotation. Hit it!

There are four main ebook DRM schemes at present, one each from Adobe, Apple, Barnes & Noble and Amazon. Adobe's Adept DRM is applied to ePubs and PDFs, and can be read by several third-party ebook readers, as well as Adobe's Adobe Digital Editions software. Apple's Fairplay DRM is applied to ePubs, and can currently only be read by Apple's iBooks app on iOS devices. Barnes & Noble's DRM scheme is implemented by Adobe, and is applied to ePubs and the older Palm format ebooks. Amazon's DRM is an adaption of the original Mobipocket encryption, and is applied to Amazon's Mobipocket and Topaz format ebooks (Wikipedia).

Wow, I’m not convinced that was even necessary… Anyways, Wikipedia also happens to have a handy chart illustrating device compatibility, check it out!

The TLDR version of the chart is that just about every eReader on the market can read the EPUB format except for longtime EPUB holdout Amazon (none of the Kindles support EPUB natively, though I’ve been told there’s an application available to convert EPUB files for use on Kindle).

Of course, the reading experience also varies from format to format… So how is one to decide? Why not test drive some eBooks! A great way to do this is via one of the many eReader apps available for PC, such as Kindle for PC, or the Kobo Desktop Reader.

What’s that? Where can you find different eBooks to try out? Happily, the Internet abounds with places to download eBooks… But maybe give these a try first!

Ebookee.org
Ebooksbay.org
Fictionbooksbay.com

Hit the books, Nerdlinger!
M.

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posted by Marcus at 12:24 AM | 0 comments
Thursday, September 9, 2010



Recently Dave Smith Instruments released a 32 key version of their popular and affordable analog desktop synth, the Mopho. Unlike the painful menu diving interface of the desktop version, the Mopho keyboard offers plenty of hands on knob control of all the parameters.

While wishing I could afford to purchase the new mopho keys, I decided to create a midi template for my Novation X-Station 25. If you happen to own one of these great synth/controllers and a mopho please download my sysex template and upload it using the novation template editor. I made this template using CC messages (check page 32 of the mopho manual for the parameter list for CC's) but apparently you need NRPN messages to take full advantage of the mopho controls. Either way, this template will send you in the right direction if you haven't explored the midi side of your mopho.


Download Link (copy/paste)

http://www.divshare.com/download/12509320-fd6
posted by Donovan at 2:06 PM | 6 comments
Saturday, July 24, 2010


I usually like to put a little more time between posts, but this little victory deserves to be posted...

If there's one thing about technology that I really can't stand, it's proprietary connections... They're the worst, around! (in a Joe Esposito sort of way). I've encountered proprietary AC adapters for notebooks and LCD monitors, proprietary video plugs, proprietary audio cables, you name it! But recently, I had to deal with something that really takes the cake... Something so insidious, so evil...so... unnecessary! I discovered... a proprietary speaker wire.

Here's how it all went down...

I recently salvaged a Sony DAV-C450: it's an older 5.1 receiver... Anyhow, as I was hooking it up I found that one of the speaker wires seemed to be missing... No big deal (or, so I thought) until I took a glance at the back of the receiver and noticed this...

When you see it, you will... wait - how does that go again?


Ye gods... the horror of it all! A proprietary plug just for a standard set of speakers! Dammit Sony, how am I not surprised?! And of course, just to add insult to injury, on the speaker-end there's regular spring clips... /facepalm.

A few searches later, I had found others in a similar situation, but no solution...

I figured I'd check the Sony site to to see how much a replacement wire would cost... how bad could it be, right?

Well, this bad: $30 + tax and shipping! lol I was glad I hadn't taken that sip of coffee...

It became obvious that it was time to take a closer look at the plug itself...


Looks sorta familiar...



... and that's when it hit me. The spare quick connects remaining from the DIY Arcade stick!


A 22-18 AWG .110 insulated female solderless quick (dis)connect terminal. These guys are commonly available in bulk from electrical component and arcade parts suppliers.


Putting it all together


So, take...
A piece of extra speaker wire

and...


A bag of quick disconnect adapters.



+ Some splicing and crimping =



....Voila!


The quick connects fit around the outer sides of the pins quite perfectly, without any modification needed.

But does it work?

Yup!

From what I've gathered doing some searching is that this should probably work with (among others) the following systems as well as with the DAV-C450:

DAV-DX155
DAV-DX255
DAV-DX315
DAV-HDX589W
DAV-S400
HCD-DX375
HCD-HDX465

Enjoy!
M.

photo credit: supremevictory.com



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posted by Marcus at 9:24 PM | 0 comments
Friday, July 23, 2010


The annual Evolution Championships wrapped up last week in Las Vegas. For those of you who haven't heard of it, EVO is one of the largest video game tournaments dedicated solely to fighting games. Awesome. We're not just talking about the major games, either. In addition to hosting the best Street Fighter, Tekken and Marvel vs. Capcom 2 players around, the tournament also welcomes those who have honed their skills to lesser known fighting gems such as and Melty Blood and BlazBlue and still others even go so far as to bring their own consoles just to play personal favourites. In other words, EVO is essentially a celebration of an entire genre of games... But of course it's a competition as well, and this year had some huge surprises... Perhaps the biggest was that Justin Wong, who's considered by many to be one of the best players around, failed to finish in the SSFIV top 8. being defeated by the gamepad wielding Vangief. Wong's longtime rival Daigo Umehara on the other hand, managed to clinch the SSFIV title but also faced a surprising elimination from the Street Fighter 3 finals.

Another totally surprising thing to come out of EVO this year was this short video made by Richhhard. It's being hailed as the "classiest Street Fighter video ever made".

Kudos! lol



We play a lot of SSFIV around here, so it was only a matter of time before we wanted our own hand-cramp-reducing (okay, probably increasing...) arcade stick. As you can see in the video above, building your own arcade stick is almost like a rite of passage for the fighting game obsessed, like a jedi building their first lightsaber! Err, anyways... If you're a fan of fighting games, you'll already know the huge disparity that exists between arcade hardware and commercially available arcade sticks... Each year companies like Madcatz and Hori put out their own high-end controllers, each claiming to have joysticks on par with arcade quality hardware. From what I've heard, the commercial models are indeed getting better, with the Madcatz TE stick and Hori's Real Arcade at the top of the heap. However, these commercial models also carry pretty hefty price tags... The solution? Build your own high quality arcade stick for a fraction of the cost!

There are many online guides and resources available for those who wish to build their own DIY arcade stick, but one of the most useful and user-friendly ones can be found at Slagcoin.com. Slagcoin's guide details the entire build process, from choosing the right buttons, sticks and restrictor gates, to building a box and wiring it all together. It's so well put together, in fact, that it would be pointless for me to offer my own guide on the topic, but I thought for visuality's sake I'd post some pictures outlining the build of my own arcade stick so you can get an idea of what's involved.

Shall we?

Step One: Select Your Components

You'll need to select a joystick in addition to however many buttons you want. Both in number and layout, your buttons are generally based on what games you intend to play. If you don't want to commit to a single arrangement, there are layouts that afford for a large degree of customization; some even containing up to eight buttons in a cluster that can stand in for several games.

For my own project, I chose a Sanwa JLF stick and Sanwa buttons for my main controls. Alternately, my Start, Select and "Home" buttons are smaller diameter Seimitsus. The hardware you choose is really a matter of personal preference; I prefer the "ball top" style JLF stick, but some swear by the bat-style made by Happ.

Another thing you'll need to consider is what type of PCB you'll be using. This choice is largely dictated by what platforms you'll be playing on. For example, there are PCBs for Playstation 3, 360, PC, and even older consoles like the Dreamcast! You can use the PCB from a standard controller, or you can buy original hardware designed for the express purpose of DIY arcade sticks. I went with the latter, opting for a Cthulhu board.

Step Two: Construct the box

A DIY arcade stick is a particularly good "first woodworking project". Not only can you can mod almost anything into an arcade stick, but making your own is relatively simple, too! I borrowed my buddy's MadCatz TE stick to get an idea of its dimensions. In the end, my frame was approximately 14.5" x 10.5" x 2.5".



To begin, I made a simple frame out of some scrap pine. I chose to use a mitre joint for the corners and then secured the joints with a couple of screws per corner.




Following the suggestion of most of the guides that I've read, I used 1/2" thick MDF for the top and bottom panels. MDF is pretty flimsy stuff, but it cuts easily and is relatively cheap, again, making it ideal for someone's first woodworking project. The general consensus is that you can use either two sheets of 1/4" thick MDF or a single 1/2" piece. I chose the latter which meant I had to use a drill press to thin out the area around and under the button holes. Ah! Speaking of which, I used this template to drill the holes in the top panel, so feel free to use it if you're also building a stick meant for Street Fighter. Lastly, I secured a few scraps of wood inside the frame to create a ledge to hold the top panel flush with the top of the frame and to protect the wiring underneath. Below is an image of the underside of the box, but it should give you an idea of what the top will look like before your button holes are drilled.



Step Three: Wire it up


Once you have your frame and your holes drilled, it's time to attach the buttons to the top panel and wire it all together. Again, it's really not as complicated as it may seem. Each button has two connectors on its underside: one for a common ground wire and one to connect the button to its corresponding terminal on the PCB. On the Cthulhu's end, wires are simply fastened by way of small screw-in terminals. On the button end, wires can be soldered directly to the the button connectors, or fastened via quick connect tabs like the ones I used. The Cthulhu PCB came with fairly detailed instructions for the wiring, but depending upon which PCB option you use, you may have to search online for your required pinout.


The Cthulhu PCB wiring diagram.


You'll also want to make sure you install the joystick right-side-up... Hey! Don't laugh! Mistakes happen, alright!? Sheesh... Anyways, if you happen to have a Sanwa JLF stick, odds are it'll have the following alignment:

Green = Right
Yellow = Left
Red = Down
Orange = Up

In addition, you'll probably want to run a few "button checks" including the stick to make sure everything works as it should, before you seal it up.

In the name of aesthetics, I used a 5/8 drill bit to countersink the screws and then filled 'em in with some wooden bolts...


I'll take the bolts over wood filler any day...

Step Four: Sweep the leg!


This thing is a beast! I think it plays a lot better than just about every commercial arcade stick I can recall using.

If you're looking for some inspiration for designing your own DIY arcade stick, I would highly recommend you check out the most impressive galleries over at Joystick Vault. Also, it would be remiss of me to write on the topic of DIY arcade sticks and not mention the excellent SRK Forums, which are an exhaustive resource for all things Street Fighter, including DIY arcade stick building.

One of the best things about building a DIY arcade stick is that, unlike a one-size-fits-all commercial model, you can build your own to exactly your own preferences and specifications. This almost complete personalization is so evident in galleries like those at Joystick Vault; there's a personal preference, reason and story behind every detail of a DIY arcade stick... Fascinating!

Oh! They're also fun to use, as well!

Until next time!

M.


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posted by Marcus at 2:51 PM | 1 comments
Epic Disclaimer: Certain projects are inherently dangerous, and even the most simple tool can cause serious injury or death if not used properly. Always read and follow instruction manuals and safety warnings. You must be particularly careful when dealing with electricity - always use common sense. Any advice, guidance or other information provided on the Robot Party! website or within any of its publications cannot completely anticipate your situation. If you are at all unsure about completing any aspect of any projects, consult a qualified professional or contractor to advise or perform the service(s) for you. Always follow electrical code requirements specific to your area, and before undertaking project that involves electricity, contact your local electrical authority and your insurance company to ensure that you comply with all policies, warranties, regulations and authorities concerning this work. You expressly agree to hold Robot Party! and its contributing authors, harmless for any property damage, personal injury and/or death, or any other loss or damage that may result from your use of the information provided. No advice or information obtained by you from us shall create any warranty not expressly made herein. Reader agrees to assume all risk resulting from the application of any of the information provided by Robot Party!. By using this web site, including any applets, software and content referenced therein, the visitor agrees that the use of this web site and its information product is entirely at his/her own risk. RobotParty! does not take any responsibility for the information presented. Information offered through Robot Party! is in no way guaranteed. Due to the nature of the internet, technology and the DIY movement some articles may discuss topics which may be illegal in some locations. Said information is provided for educational purposes only and is to be used at the reader's own discretion. Robot Party! and its contributing authors do not condone or endorse any illegal activity. All contents copyright © 2010, Robot-Party! All Rights Reserved.